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Tuesday, February 14, 2017

El Tunco (El Salvador) - Bullet the blue sky

EL TUNCO (EL SALVADOR)
14 February - 16 February 2017

El Tunco was close to being the ultimate surprise packet of the trip. We arrived with no expectations, with not much knowledge other than the understanding that the waves here were good and that the sunsets were something to write home about. Absolutely true, on both counts.


El Tunco beach - El Tunco - El Salvador


El Tunco beach - El Tunco - El Salvador


 El Tunco - El Salvador


El Salvador itself hasn’t been dealt a great hand. It’s recent history also incorporates a Civil War that lasted a period of 13 years from 1979-1992. Admittedly I don’t know a lot about the country and about half of what I do relate to comes from a U2 song, Bullet the Blue Sky;

                Well the God I believe in ain’t short of cash, mister
                I feel a long way from the hills of San Salvador
                Where the sky is ripped open and the rain pours
                Pelting the woman and children
                Run, run into the arms of America

What a pleasure therefore it was for our transit van from Leon (Nicaragua) to turn up into this two street town just of Ruta 2 on the Pacific coastline and encounter the relaxed, beach side town of El Tunco. A place that moved to the beat of its own drum, that was as smooth as a great Irish whiskey and as relaxed as British tourist on their first visit to Amsterdam. This place was a draw card, and as we discovered, is the El Salvadorian draw card. A place with ultimate surf, majestic sunsets, an easy going vibe and as yet, has not been overrun by tourists – this is ‘just the ticket’.


El Tunco beach - El Tunco - El Salvador


El Tunco - El Salvador


 El Tunco - El Salvador


 Restaurante La Bocana - El Tunco - El Salvador


 El Tunco - El Salvador


 El Tunco - El Salvador


We stayed at an incredibly fabulous two star hostal – Hostal Los Almendros El Sunzal located around the Western point of Playa El Tunco.  In fact the walk to the accommodation was along the beach from the end of main walkway in town. This we discovered was the only ‘real’ detriment to El Tunco, with a  stone based beach akin to those in Europe, it was untypically Pacific like. The hostal, around the point, had the perfect location, open to the Pacific ocean, a beautiful sun deck with pool and some cheap, basic accommodation. It was really the ideal scenario.


Hostal Los Almendros El Sunzal  - El Tunco - El Salvador


Most of the time in El Tunco we either spent at the Hostal or in El Tunco itself. Without being surfers there’s not really a hell of a lot to be doing other than unwinding and dialling back whatever level of anxiety you have. The place is just the tonic for all your ‘inactive’ requirements, what’s more, for right now as an extremely cheap destination to go to, value for money is incredible.


La Libertad - El Salvador


La Libertad - El Salvador


Sunset - El Tunco - El Salvador


Sunset - El Tunco - El Salvador


El Tunco - El Salvador


Leaving the fantastic El Tunco - El Salvador


Inga and I had one of our most memorable nights on the sun deck at the Hostal. With a few drinks, some snacks in hand, some fine cigars, the starry night sky, crashing waves and light breeze of the Pacific Ocean, we just sat there chatting for hours. It was just bliss. To steal a quote;

                Memories are made in El Tunco

Certainly they are. To you El Tunco I say thank you. A wonderful hidden surprise in a part of the world that needs to find more elements of you in its country.

Sunday, February 12, 2017

Leon (Nicaragua) - Kings of...

LEON (NICARAGUA)
12 February - 14 February 2017



There is nothing quite like the blind panic you feel when you’ve been woken up by the town evacuation alarm and you make it out onto the desolate streets, heart racing, barefoot, your mind processing information, and only to finding an public square staring you straight in the face. That was one of the wake-up calls that we encountered in Leon. Travelling through an active volcanic region I thought that my concealed and restrained fears had come back to well and truly bite us in our ‘bravado’. For a split second my head could only think, “Oh f***’. Then I saw a person. Looking around, I saw more people. They were walking and acting normally, unperturbed, in control. Absolutely no fear or anxiety visible. We watched the scene for a little while longer whilst our beating hearts settled into a comfortable canter. So, no evacuation scheduled for today? What the hell was that then? Asking around at the hostel we were staying at we were told that the siren goes off twice a day. Once at 7am, so the children of the town know that it’s time to go to school, and another at midday to signal lunch.

BLOODY HELL – Leon, there’s just to go be a better way, for all and sunder.

Leon as a town is not Granada. It’s grittier, dirtier, and Castilian architectural roots. It’s said that Leon is ‘artier’ than Granada, and if that’s just in relation to the murals that adorn its city walls, then ok, that’s correct. As a city though, it didn’t have enough for me to get behind it. It felt desolate, abandoned, a little wild west. You wouldn’t bat an eyelid and tumbleweeds gliding down the road. In all honesty though, we weren’t in Leon for any real cultural reason.

Some years ago I wrote an entry into this blog (April 15, 2011) https://hdbc2.blogspot.com/2011/04/my-next-10-squared.html , in it I nominated Sandboarding Cerro Negro in Nicaragua as No.5 on my list of ‘You want to do what now!?!’. Well, sometimes even the fanciful comes true. Leon is the ‘base camp’ utilised for attack the volcano with sand boards. Of course these days is not the ‘far-out’, random, off-the beaten track activity that it was some 10 yrs ago. These days it’s sort of like a factory. There’s many tourist agencies offering entry to the park, sand boards, equipment and guides – a lot of which you don’t really need but in handy in any case. So we booked ourselves onto an afternoon excursion and we were off to conquer the volcano!


Cerro Negro - near Leon - Nicaragua

Cerro Negro - Nicaragua

Cerro Negro - Nicaragua


The reality of getting to the park, accessing the volcano and getting to the top is a lot easier than the Youtube videos made it out be. In my mind Cerro Negro was in a far flung corner of the earth, took days to climb and what you purchased in hard earned elevation was the gratification you received in being able to sand board down. Wasn’t that a mighty misconception! We were able to quite easily take catch a van to the National Park, took a comfortable 5 min stroll from the car park to the base of the volcano and managed to walk to the summit in 30 mins. That’s the truth of the matter. This was no epic feat by any stretch of the imagination….but…to say that the volcano was dormant is itself a lie. This thing is active, amongst the most active in Nicaragua. There are smoking vents visible right up the climb and digging a centimetre or so below the surface really warms your fingers up in a hurry.


Cerro Negro - Nicaragua

Cerro Negro - Nicaragua

Cerro Negro - Nicaragua

Battle axes ready! Cerro Negro - Nicaragua

Cerro Negro - Nicaragua


At an elevation of 750 mtrs the walk up isn’t particularly strenuous but it does provide you with some rather good views. The ability to sand board the volcano is derived from the soil composition, tiny grains of black volcanic rock that make the back side of the volcano more than useful substitute for sand which in turn allows you to ‘carve it up’, in theory. I say in theory because on a guided tour there’s a very homogenised & deliberate manner that they will allow you to attack the slope. First, all guided sand-boarding is seated. Then there’s an awful methodology of sand-board management you adhere to because ‘hey’ you’re not the professional. The issue with adhering to the method in the madness is what it does to your descent
Descending the black mountains should be ALL about speed. Daily records are posted by some hostels with records holders commonly getting hitting 90+kph. This is what we imagined to be doing.

Sitting at the top of the volcano, on the precipice, there was a rush of adrenaline. All we needed to do now was cast ourselves into the abyss, use our feet as brakes and let the board fly!

WHAT A DISAPPOINTMENT!!!!

The guide we had advised us to stick our feet in front of the board. What this did was immediately and miserably slow down the board and all momentum the moment we hit a bump as our feet immediately dug into the soil. In hindsight, just resting our feet on the board for the ride would have been the magic bullet but in this ‘live’ version it inhibited the action so much that I felt like a pensioner that had been let loose on a Sunday walk. It was pathetic. It was so pathetic that when I reached the base of the volcano my disappointment was readily visible and the guide, seeing that I was feeling a little bummed, attempted to console me by saying;

 ‘I think you reached around 30kph, maybe’.


‘Maybe huh? Maybe it was 20kph, or maybe I reached the speed limit for piss weak brother!??’

The encapsulation of 'safe sex' - Cerro Negro - Nicaragua

Time to ride - Cerro Negro - Nicaragua




Inga actually did quite a good job

I in fact did a crap job!


It took me a few minutes but I calmed myself down to realise that the achievement was in the conquering of the volcano.

Inga appeared to adapt to the ride better than I did and really picked up the pace towards the bottom of the hill. Not 90kph but not anything close to the speed….the paltry, miserable speed, that I allowed myself.

Anyway, with the wrap up tour to Cerro Negro so too our stay in Leon wrapped up. A nice town with some interesting elements but not really worth an extended visit.

Friday, February 10, 2017

Granada (Nicaragua) - Pastels in the shade

GRANADA (NICARAGUA)
10 February - 12 February 2017



We were happy to leave Ometepe. Nothing against the island itself, it could have been extremely pleasant but for the tools at El Jardin de la Vida.

Disembarking from the ferry at San Jorge we were immediately ushered onto the Chicken Bus  express to Granada.  The fervour of the ushering I’m sure caught all the gringos off-guard, and again, in accordance with our own prior experience, we should have known that the local engagement to get us on a ‘soon to be departing’ vehicle was a small scam. Not an overwhelming scam, just a minor one. Still, moderately annoying to us when we discovered how it worked.


Granada - Nicaragua

Granada - Nicaragua

Granada - Nicaragua

Granada - Nicaragua

Granada - Nicaragua


Somewhere outside of Granada, approximately 5-6kms from the actual centre of town, appeared that same style of fervour, in this incarnation it was the need for an ‘immediate evacuation’. From the front of the bus we heard ‘Granada, Granada, vamos, vamos’. It was a call made specifically for the sake of all the Gringos once again, but what can you do, you can only believe in what you hear. OK, time to move we thought. So on a relatively empty highway there we were, bags off loaded amongst a throng of awaiting tuk-tuk drivers….huh, where did they come from? Why were they waiting for us?  It didn’t take long for us to discover that we were not in fact in Granada and these tuk-tuk drivers were waiting for us…the collective ‘us’ being the Gringo travellers that didn’t know any better and that now needed to pay for a tuk-tuk into the city centre. Ahh, another day, another scam in Central America. Welcome to the art of being worked.


Granada - Nicaragua

Granada - Nicaragua

Granada - Nicaragua

Granada - Nicaragua

Granada - Nicaragua

Granada - Nicaragua


Arriving in Granada however immediately elevated the city to ‘surprise packet’ status. It’s actually a real treat when you come across places of unexpected beauty or attraction. With its Moorish and Andalusian style architecture, colourful facades, and Spanish colonial feel, this city immediately had an appeal of charm, interest and fun. It wasn’t long after dropping our bags at our lodging that we went off to discover a city that was sprightly and energetic. Bars full of vivacious and perky punters, interest restaurants and a couple of cigar dens offered automatic engagement.


Granada - Nicaragua

Granada - Nicaragua

Granada - Nicaragua

Granada - Nicaragua

Granada - Nicaragua

Granada - Nicaragua

Granada - Nicaragua

Granada - Nicaragua


In terms of an offering that was the Granada that we witnessed. A small but interesting town that has gone through a type of renaissance on the back of interest from travellers. As the visitors have moved in more money has been spent on the restoration of some quite impressive old colonial buildings, many of which have been painted in pastel colours, making for a vibrant and colourful destination. Outside of Granada there are things to do like hikes, ‘volcano discovery’, outdoor style adventures. Of these we actually chose to see an active volcano, which is what brought us to the Masaya caldera.

The complex volcano is composed of nested set of calderas and craters, the largest of which is the Las Sierras shield volcano and caldera, with one of the sub-vents being the Masaya volcano.


Granada - Nicaragua

Granada - Nicaragua

Granada - Nicaragua

On the way to the Masaya volcano - Nicaragua

Masaya volcano - Nicaragua

Masaya volcano - Nicaragua


An interesting sight without being outstanding, it was interesting looking into the bowels of the earth and wondering what the hell truly goes on down there. Is this really a fair and true representation of all things ‘core’ to earth? Are we eternally going to be in ‘chill’ mode. A quick investigation tells you then by the time that our inner core ‘fully chills’ that our magnetic field will actually be lost and we’ll become susceptible to such things as the harmful particles that the sun throws at us. Food for thought huh?

In any case, back to Granada, a town that’s made for those who enjoy a casual stroll, a drink in the sun and absorbing what it has to offer. Definitely a stop worth a few days if you’re on the Central American trail.