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Showing posts with label Nicaragua. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Nicaragua. Show all posts

Monday, March 20, 2017

Central America - the 'Because it's there' tour - the FINAL

CENTRAL AMERICA
15 January – 12 March 2017

It’s a wrap

As has become standard for me when I've ended a trip I've taken to doing a last summary or a 'greatest hits' review whenever I managed to complete the final entry on the 'how, why, when and whatever else may have been alcohol related' blog series of my most recent escapades. Sticking with tradition and therefore adopting the same template that I've used in the past, see also;

1. [Morocco - Europe wrap - June/July 2008]
2. [Laos wrap - April 2009]
3. [Vietnam-Malaysia wrap - December/January 2009/10]
4. [Europe-Morocco-South America wrap - 2010]
5. [USA-Mexico wrap - February/March - 2011]
6. [Brazil-UAE wrap - December/January -2011/12]
7. [Argentina-Uruguay wrap - August 2012]
8. [South America wrap - 2015]


I therefore bring you the close out of our Central American experience which continues  within Life in a Year Full of Saturdays. The Central American tour, Because it’s there’, was just one of those things where we thought, hey, why shouldn’t we. Lets’ just got and see what’s there.

So here it is…Central America ‘The Final’

Our favourite places

1  1. Caye Caulker (Belize) - To think, this place wasn’t even on the itinerary, it was one of those places that we considered adding in ‘if’ time permitted, and hell, weren’t we thankful for making the correct decision. A Caribbean dream.


Caye Caulker - Belize

Caye Caulker - Belize


2    2. Havana (Cuba) - An old favourite, this place is timeless and will always hold a special place in our hearts and minds. Even as the wind of change makes its way across the island, what it is and what it stands for is pervasive and special to all.


Havana - Cuba

The Malecon - Havana - Cuba


   3.  El Tunco (El Salvador) - A surprisingly wonderful destination. Sunsets, surf and cocktail dreams. Inspiration on the Pacific in a corner of the world that remains reasonably undiscovered


El Tunco - El Salvador

El Tunco - El Salvador


4    4. Antigua (Guatemala) - The ‘Melbourne’ of Central America, speakeasies at every turn. A town of stunning colonial architecture, fantastic food and bars that could find themselves in any Alpha City of the world.


Antigua - Guatemala


5    5. Cabo San Lucas (Mexico) - Where the desert meets the sea (or rather, the ocean), white beaches, nightlife, water sports. It’s a place that allows you to do a lot, have fun and sets the scene with gorgeous scenery and equally supportive climate.


Cabo San Lucas - Mexico




Most Surprising

Caye Caulker (Belize)

We really didn’t expect much from Caye Caulker, perhaps our Central America on a shoestring guide didn’t do it justice. With that said, Belize City is not at all spectacular and not worth occupying your time, but then, jump on a fast ferry, get out to the Caye’s and soon enough you’ll be swinging in a hammock, staring up at the wonderful palm trees and thinking that life can be as simple as this.

Best Drinks

1  1. Cadillac Margarita – Hooters – Cancun (Mexico) - Don’t knock it unless you’ve tried it. Both Inga and I enjoy the junk food hit and the satisfaction of not eating healthy, and then rolled in the big, stylish Cadillac Margarita which just swept us off our feet.

2  2. Pina Colada – Malecon – Havana (Cuba) – Hotel Terral – It’s all about the quality at this place. Equally as great as the first occasion I tried it here two years ago. Sweet, rich, cold and delicious on every occasion. It was 2015 all over again, consistency and deliciousness is triumphant here.

3  3. Daquiri – El Floridita – Havana (Cuba) – You could hardly believe that a drink that is as mass produced as the daiquiri in El Floridita could be any good, but of course, you would be wrong. Batch made, not bespoke, but the man behind the bar has some 25 years of experience and man, he obviously knows a thing or two about turning them over, getting them out and making them right!


Can you believe it moments

11. El Tunco (El Salvador) - Sitting on the back deck of the El Sunzal El Tunco, the waves of the Pacific crashing at our doorstep, staring up at the stars, sharing a drink and a cigar, it was hard to believe that a simple place like this could be so wonderful…but it was.


El Tunco - El Salvador


2  2. Leon (Nicaragua) - Waking up at 7am to what we thought was an evacuation alarm, and believing in that moment that we were in the midst of a volcanic eruption with our lives, potentially being on the line, was not cool perse, not until such time that we figured out that the alarm was the standard morning wake-up call for the school kids of Leon.


Leon - Nicaragua


3    3. Sunset on the Malecon – view from our hospederia – Havana (Cuba) - Two years earlier we had walked the Malecon and wondered what it would be like to watch a sunset from one of the buildings on the ocean front. Two years later we were fortunate enough to share that very experience together.


The Malecon - Havana - Cuba

The Malecon - Havana - Cuba


Un-cool moments

1  1. El Jardin de la Vida – Ometepe (Nicaragua) - Having dragged two mountain bikes, aka, gross hunks of chunk, around the base of Volcan Maderas, we managed to get back to our accommodation only to be accused by the owners of being ignorant, naïve and almost negligent for the complete break down of their bikes. Well, your treatment of us was pathetic, your moral compass off and your understanding of your own responsibilities in renting out this bikes were grossly underestimated. I said it once and I’ll say it again, to the owners of El Jardin de la Vida, you suck!!


El Jardin de la Vida - Ometepe - Nicaragua
Yes, you SUCKED!


   2. Te’Kila, 6541 Hollywood Boulevard – Hollywood - Los Angeles  (USA) The audacity of these guys slipping a 20% fee onto our bill and hoping we wouldn’t call them on it was one thing, but then, trying to get it by us by claiming it was a tourist tax, well that was pathetic. We called them out and they backed down, but their manner was just so shonky and disrespectful.
Te'Kila - Hollywood Boulevard - Hollywood - Los Angeles - USA
Yes, you guys were DODGY!

Te'Kila - Hollywood Boulevard - Hollywood - Los Angeles - USA
Yes, you guys were DODGY!


3    3. The Nowhere Bar – Los Cabos San Lucas (Mexico) - It all came unstuck here when the waiter told me that the tip that I had given him was insufficient. It was close to 10% but not 10%. Hmmm, no I was of the opinion that tips were in fact discretionary and not an obligation. So with that said I simply pulled whatever tip it was and offered nothing instead. I think this set off the internal combustion of this guy and it got to the point where he asked ‘where are you staying’, in a thinly veiled threat. F*** you hombre!!


Best Accommodation

1 1. The Hard Rock Hotel – Hard Rock Megalopolis – Panama City (Panama)The place is just cool and hell, it was a great place to stay, even though it was a fair amount more than our on a shoestring budget dictated


Hard Rock Hotel - Hard Rock Megalopolis - Panama City - Panama

Hard Rock Hotel - Hard Rock Megalopolis - Panama City - Panama

2. Random hospederia – Malecon – Havana (Cuba) - Looking out onto the Malecon, watching the sun dip down over Havana Bay whilst people made their way up and down the ocean front. How much more of a spectacular location could you ask for?

3 . El Sunzal El Tunco – El Tunco (El Salvador) - What an amazing location you get for the price. Fronting the Pacific, you are front and centre to the show that nature puts on every evening.


El Sunzal El Tunco - El Tunco - El Salvador


Random but still cool moments

Entrance to Tikal (Guatemala)

We had a difference of opinion with our tour operator when we reached Tikal. Effectively, without wanting to pay entry into the park twice, we had to stay at the entrance until such time that our day ticket, for the next day, would let us in. We spent 6hrs at the front gates, a space of time that we thought we brutalise us, but, with some imagination and ingenuity the time passed quickly and in fact, to me, it actually turned out to be a lot of fun.


The entrance to Tikal - Guatemala
6 hours, right here

The entrance to Tikal - Guatemala


Travel breakdown

Total number of flights
13

Total flying hours
49.15

Total distance flown
33,240kms

Total number of bus rides

19

Total distance covered by bus
4235kms

Average number of pupusas per day in El Salvador 

7.2

Total number of boats/ferries
6

And there we have it, the wrap of a tour that was quite surprising for what it offered. As a whole Central America was about what I expected, as a whole, but there were pockets that delivered so much more and that’s what made travelling through this part of the world so satisfying.

So where to now? Well our next escapade it going to be into the region where we’re scheduled to tie the knot on June 30th (2017).

This trip is more about validating that our location wedding actually is the right location for us. Wish us luck!!


Sunday, February 12, 2017

Leon (Nicaragua) - Kings of...

LEON (NICARAGUA)
12 February - 14 February 2017



There is nothing quite like the blind panic you feel when you’ve been woken up by the town evacuation alarm and you make it out onto the desolate streets, heart racing, barefoot, your mind processing information, and only to finding an public square staring you straight in the face. That was one of the wake-up calls that we encountered in Leon. Travelling through an active volcanic region I thought that my concealed and restrained fears had come back to well and truly bite us in our ‘bravado’. For a split second my head could only think, “Oh f***’. Then I saw a person. Looking around, I saw more people. They were walking and acting normally, unperturbed, in control. Absolutely no fear or anxiety visible. We watched the scene for a little while longer whilst our beating hearts settled into a comfortable canter. So, no evacuation scheduled for today? What the hell was that then? Asking around at the hostel we were staying at we were told that the siren goes off twice a day. Once at 7am, so the children of the town know that it’s time to go to school, and another at midday to signal lunch.

BLOODY HELL – Leon, there’s just to go be a better way, for all and sunder.

Leon as a town is not Granada. It’s grittier, dirtier, and Castilian architectural roots. It’s said that Leon is ‘artier’ than Granada, and if that’s just in relation to the murals that adorn its city walls, then ok, that’s correct. As a city though, it didn’t have enough for me to get behind it. It felt desolate, abandoned, a little wild west. You wouldn’t bat an eyelid and tumbleweeds gliding down the road. In all honesty though, we weren’t in Leon for any real cultural reason.

Some years ago I wrote an entry into this blog (April 15, 2011) https://hdbc2.blogspot.com/2011/04/my-next-10-squared.html , in it I nominated Sandboarding Cerro Negro in Nicaragua as No.5 on my list of ‘You want to do what now!?!’. Well, sometimes even the fanciful comes true. Leon is the ‘base camp’ utilised for attack the volcano with sand boards. Of course these days is not the ‘far-out’, random, off-the beaten track activity that it was some 10 yrs ago. These days it’s sort of like a factory. There’s many tourist agencies offering entry to the park, sand boards, equipment and guides – a lot of which you don’t really need but in handy in any case. So we booked ourselves onto an afternoon excursion and we were off to conquer the volcano!


Cerro Negro - near Leon - Nicaragua

Cerro Negro - Nicaragua

Cerro Negro - Nicaragua


The reality of getting to the park, accessing the volcano and getting to the top is a lot easier than the Youtube videos made it out be. In my mind Cerro Negro was in a far flung corner of the earth, took days to climb and what you purchased in hard earned elevation was the gratification you received in being able to sand board down. Wasn’t that a mighty misconception! We were able to quite easily take catch a van to the National Park, took a comfortable 5 min stroll from the car park to the base of the volcano and managed to walk to the summit in 30 mins. That’s the truth of the matter. This was no epic feat by any stretch of the imagination….but…to say that the volcano was dormant is itself a lie. This thing is active, amongst the most active in Nicaragua. There are smoking vents visible right up the climb and digging a centimetre or so below the surface really warms your fingers up in a hurry.


Cerro Negro - Nicaragua

Cerro Negro - Nicaragua

Cerro Negro - Nicaragua

Battle axes ready! Cerro Negro - Nicaragua

Cerro Negro - Nicaragua


At an elevation of 750 mtrs the walk up isn’t particularly strenuous but it does provide you with some rather good views. The ability to sand board the volcano is derived from the soil composition, tiny grains of black volcanic rock that make the back side of the volcano more than useful substitute for sand which in turn allows you to ‘carve it up’, in theory. I say in theory because on a guided tour there’s a very homogenised & deliberate manner that they will allow you to attack the slope. First, all guided sand-boarding is seated. Then there’s an awful methodology of sand-board management you adhere to because ‘hey’ you’re not the professional. The issue with adhering to the method in the madness is what it does to your descent
Descending the black mountains should be ALL about speed. Daily records are posted by some hostels with records holders commonly getting hitting 90+kph. This is what we imagined to be doing.

Sitting at the top of the volcano, on the precipice, there was a rush of adrenaline. All we needed to do now was cast ourselves into the abyss, use our feet as brakes and let the board fly!

WHAT A DISAPPOINTMENT!!!!

The guide we had advised us to stick our feet in front of the board. What this did was immediately and miserably slow down the board and all momentum the moment we hit a bump as our feet immediately dug into the soil. In hindsight, just resting our feet on the board for the ride would have been the magic bullet but in this ‘live’ version it inhibited the action so much that I felt like a pensioner that had been let loose on a Sunday walk. It was pathetic. It was so pathetic that when I reached the base of the volcano my disappointment was readily visible and the guide, seeing that I was feeling a little bummed, attempted to console me by saying;

 ‘I think you reached around 30kph, maybe’.


‘Maybe huh? Maybe it was 20kph, or maybe I reached the speed limit for piss weak brother!??’

The encapsulation of 'safe sex' - Cerro Negro - Nicaragua

Time to ride - Cerro Negro - Nicaragua




Inga actually did quite a good job

I in fact did a crap job!


It took me a few minutes but I calmed myself down to realise that the achievement was in the conquering of the volcano.

Inga appeared to adapt to the ride better than I did and really picked up the pace towards the bottom of the hill. Not 90kph but not anything close to the speed….the paltry, miserable speed, that I allowed myself.

Anyway, with the wrap up tour to Cerro Negro so too our stay in Leon wrapped up. A nice town with some interesting elements but not really worth an extended visit.