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Showing posts with label Costa Rica. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Costa Rica. Show all posts

Monday, March 20, 2017

Central America - the 'Because it's there' tour - the FINAL

CENTRAL AMERICA
15 January – 12 March 2017

It’s a wrap

As has become standard for me when I've ended a trip I've taken to doing a last summary or a 'greatest hits' review whenever I managed to complete the final entry on the 'how, why, when and whatever else may have been alcohol related' blog series of my most recent escapades. Sticking with tradition and therefore adopting the same template that I've used in the past, see also;

1. [Morocco - Europe wrap - June/July 2008]
2. [Laos wrap - April 2009]
3. [Vietnam-Malaysia wrap - December/January 2009/10]
4. [Europe-Morocco-South America wrap - 2010]
5. [USA-Mexico wrap - February/March - 2011]
6. [Brazil-UAE wrap - December/January -2011/12]
7. [Argentina-Uruguay wrap - August 2012]
8. [South America wrap - 2015]


I therefore bring you the close out of our Central American experience which continues  within Life in a Year Full of Saturdays. The Central American tour, Because it’s there’, was just one of those things where we thought, hey, why shouldn’t we. Lets’ just got and see what’s there.

So here it is…Central America ‘The Final’

Our favourite places

1  1. Caye Caulker (Belize) - To think, this place wasn’t even on the itinerary, it was one of those places that we considered adding in ‘if’ time permitted, and hell, weren’t we thankful for making the correct decision. A Caribbean dream.


Caye Caulker - Belize

Caye Caulker - Belize


2    2. Havana (Cuba) - An old favourite, this place is timeless and will always hold a special place in our hearts and minds. Even as the wind of change makes its way across the island, what it is and what it stands for is pervasive and special to all.


Havana - Cuba

The Malecon - Havana - Cuba


   3.  El Tunco (El Salvador) - A surprisingly wonderful destination. Sunsets, surf and cocktail dreams. Inspiration on the Pacific in a corner of the world that remains reasonably undiscovered


El Tunco - El Salvador

El Tunco - El Salvador


4    4. Antigua (Guatemala) - The ‘Melbourne’ of Central America, speakeasies at every turn. A town of stunning colonial architecture, fantastic food and bars that could find themselves in any Alpha City of the world.


Antigua - Guatemala


5    5. Cabo San Lucas (Mexico) - Where the desert meets the sea (or rather, the ocean), white beaches, nightlife, water sports. It’s a place that allows you to do a lot, have fun and sets the scene with gorgeous scenery and equally supportive climate.


Cabo San Lucas - Mexico




Most Surprising

Caye Caulker (Belize)

We really didn’t expect much from Caye Caulker, perhaps our Central America on a shoestring guide didn’t do it justice. With that said, Belize City is not at all spectacular and not worth occupying your time, but then, jump on a fast ferry, get out to the Caye’s and soon enough you’ll be swinging in a hammock, staring up at the wonderful palm trees and thinking that life can be as simple as this.

Best Drinks

1  1. Cadillac Margarita – Hooters – Cancun (Mexico) - Don’t knock it unless you’ve tried it. Both Inga and I enjoy the junk food hit and the satisfaction of not eating healthy, and then rolled in the big, stylish Cadillac Margarita which just swept us off our feet.

2  2. Pina Colada – Malecon – Havana (Cuba) – Hotel Terral – It’s all about the quality at this place. Equally as great as the first occasion I tried it here two years ago. Sweet, rich, cold and delicious on every occasion. It was 2015 all over again, consistency and deliciousness is triumphant here.

3  3. Daquiri – El Floridita – Havana (Cuba) – You could hardly believe that a drink that is as mass produced as the daiquiri in El Floridita could be any good, but of course, you would be wrong. Batch made, not bespoke, but the man behind the bar has some 25 years of experience and man, he obviously knows a thing or two about turning them over, getting them out and making them right!


Can you believe it moments

11. El Tunco (El Salvador) - Sitting on the back deck of the El Sunzal El Tunco, the waves of the Pacific crashing at our doorstep, staring up at the stars, sharing a drink and a cigar, it was hard to believe that a simple place like this could be so wonderful…but it was.


El Tunco - El Salvador


2  2. Leon (Nicaragua) - Waking up at 7am to what we thought was an evacuation alarm, and believing in that moment that we were in the midst of a volcanic eruption with our lives, potentially being on the line, was not cool perse, not until such time that we figured out that the alarm was the standard morning wake-up call for the school kids of Leon.


Leon - Nicaragua


3    3. Sunset on the Malecon – view from our hospederia – Havana (Cuba) - Two years earlier we had walked the Malecon and wondered what it would be like to watch a sunset from one of the buildings on the ocean front. Two years later we were fortunate enough to share that very experience together.


The Malecon - Havana - Cuba

The Malecon - Havana - Cuba


Un-cool moments

1  1. El Jardin de la Vida – Ometepe (Nicaragua) - Having dragged two mountain bikes, aka, gross hunks of chunk, around the base of Volcan Maderas, we managed to get back to our accommodation only to be accused by the owners of being ignorant, naïve and almost negligent for the complete break down of their bikes. Well, your treatment of us was pathetic, your moral compass off and your understanding of your own responsibilities in renting out this bikes were grossly underestimated. I said it once and I’ll say it again, to the owners of El Jardin de la Vida, you suck!!


El Jardin de la Vida - Ometepe - Nicaragua
Yes, you SUCKED!


   2. Te’Kila, 6541 Hollywood Boulevard – Hollywood - Los Angeles  (USA) The audacity of these guys slipping a 20% fee onto our bill and hoping we wouldn’t call them on it was one thing, but then, trying to get it by us by claiming it was a tourist tax, well that was pathetic. We called them out and they backed down, but their manner was just so shonky and disrespectful.
Te'Kila - Hollywood Boulevard - Hollywood - Los Angeles - USA
Yes, you guys were DODGY!

Te'Kila - Hollywood Boulevard - Hollywood - Los Angeles - USA
Yes, you guys were DODGY!


3    3. The Nowhere Bar – Los Cabos San Lucas (Mexico) - It all came unstuck here when the waiter told me that the tip that I had given him was insufficient. It was close to 10% but not 10%. Hmmm, no I was of the opinion that tips were in fact discretionary and not an obligation. So with that said I simply pulled whatever tip it was and offered nothing instead. I think this set off the internal combustion of this guy and it got to the point where he asked ‘where are you staying’, in a thinly veiled threat. F*** you hombre!!


Best Accommodation

1 1. The Hard Rock Hotel – Hard Rock Megalopolis – Panama City (Panama)The place is just cool and hell, it was a great place to stay, even though it was a fair amount more than our on a shoestring budget dictated


Hard Rock Hotel - Hard Rock Megalopolis - Panama City - Panama

Hard Rock Hotel - Hard Rock Megalopolis - Panama City - Panama

2. Random hospederia – Malecon – Havana (Cuba) - Looking out onto the Malecon, watching the sun dip down over Havana Bay whilst people made their way up and down the ocean front. How much more of a spectacular location could you ask for?

3 . El Sunzal El Tunco – El Tunco (El Salvador) - What an amazing location you get for the price. Fronting the Pacific, you are front and centre to the show that nature puts on every evening.


El Sunzal El Tunco - El Tunco - El Salvador


Random but still cool moments

Entrance to Tikal (Guatemala)

We had a difference of opinion with our tour operator when we reached Tikal. Effectively, without wanting to pay entry into the park twice, we had to stay at the entrance until such time that our day ticket, for the next day, would let us in. We spent 6hrs at the front gates, a space of time that we thought we brutalise us, but, with some imagination and ingenuity the time passed quickly and in fact, to me, it actually turned out to be a lot of fun.


The entrance to Tikal - Guatemala
6 hours, right here

The entrance to Tikal - Guatemala


Travel breakdown

Total number of flights
13

Total flying hours
49.15

Total distance flown
33,240kms

Total number of bus rides

19

Total distance covered by bus
4235kms

Average number of pupusas per day in El Salvador 

7.2

Total number of boats/ferries
6

And there we have it, the wrap of a tour that was quite surprising for what it offered. As a whole Central America was about what I expected, as a whole, but there were pockets that delivered so much more and that’s what made travelling through this part of the world so satisfying.

So where to now? Well our next escapade it going to be into the region where we’re scheduled to tie the knot on June 30th (2017).

This trip is more about validating that our location wedding actually is the right location for us. Wish us luck!!


Saturday, February 4, 2017

San Jose (Costa Rica) - We know the way...and we know the way out

SAN JOSE (COSTA RICA)
04 February - 05 February 2017



There's not a lot to write home about when it comes to mentioning our return to San Jose. It was completely out of necessity, a requirement allowing us to transfer from Boquete in Panama to San Juan del Sur in Nicaragua.

Our overnight stay didn't uncover anything that we'd somehow missed on our previous stop.

Kindly accept this entry as a mere placeholder of necessity. Something that prevents me from breaking the travel chain of realisation from start to finish,

And with that said, San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua, next stop!

Tuesday, January 24, 2017

Playa Negra / Puerto Viejo de Talamanca (Costa Rica) - Black sand


Playa Negra / Puerto Viejo de Talamanca (Costa Rica)

24 January - 27 January 2017

Located in the Limon province on the shores of the Caribbean Sea, Playa Negra and its associate town, Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, is very much a laid back, sleepy type of world that attracts people of the same vibe. I often find it amusing that observations of slow moving, sleepy towns are that the people there are of the same elk. Newsflash sports fans, the ‘town’ is really a collective name for a group of people that have gathered in the same spot. If the town has a vibe it's likely to be attributable to the nature of the people that have made that corner of the world home.

A 4 hour bus ride south-east out of San Jose, and thankfully, a world away from the mundane city that masquerades as a Central American capital, the shoreline of Playa Negra lives up to its expectation. Black volcanic sand acquaints itself with the Caribbean sea, its colour all to do of course with run-off from close by volcanic areas.


Near Puerto Viejo - Costa Rica

Near Puerto Viejo - Costa Rica

Near Puerto Viejo - Costa Rica

Moving further down the coastline from Puerto Viejo there are some extremely pleasant stretches of sand and accompanying beaches that bask brilliantly in the Caribbean sunshine. Surrounded by rich, tropical, jungle vegetation and palm trees swaying the breeze. There's a distinct sense of ownership that you encounter in that there's no crowds, meaning no designated flag areas where 500 people swim in a space of 50mtrs2, and also meaning you can carve out a piece of paradise for the afternoon ever so freely – this is just an easy lifestyle.There's no real infrastructure either, no big marinas, no burgeoning waterside developments and no ‘high streets’.Here you just have beach shacks, basic accommodation and a cool breeze that's ever supportive of whatever it is that you want to do.

Of course, like anywhere, the more people discover a place and the more popular it becomes then the more people find out, inhabit and commercialise. South of Puerto Viejo there are 'secluded' spa retreats, wellness centres, yoga sanctuaries, pottery classes for vegans & kimchi making classes for pottery experts (I would imagine). All that boho, tripitaka stuff finds its home on shores of golden sands and the warm waters of the Caribbean Sea. For the moment the mix is nice enough to allow this place to still be away from all that is 'known', without having it overwhelmed and inundated. That's for now of course, 10 years time it will be a very different story.


Near Puerto Viejo - Costa Rica

Puerto Viejo de Talamanca - Costa Rica

Australia Day 'Sangas - Puerto Viejo de Talamanca - Costa Rica

Playa Negra - Costa Rica

Waiting for the van to take us into Panama


Formerly a fishing village, Puerto Viejo is morphing somewhat to cater for a cashed up clientele who are making their way down to new found surfing breaks. Bars, restaurants and discos fill most of the streets of this small town, and in fact, Inga and I celebrated Australia Day in place called Outback Jack’s. An Australian owned jointed that gave away free sausage sandwiches on Oz Day but couldn’t cobble together any form of cocktail if they tried. It was almost as if they had taken an anti-cocktail making course, or at the very least, spent too much time in the bars of Uyuni, Bolivia.

Our time in Puerto Viejo was nice, and when I say that, I mean in that calm and relaxed way. There was nothing extravagant down here but I guess that was exactly the point. If you’re looking for a tropical hideaway that doesn’t have all the bells and whistles of a typical beach resort town, then this is your flavour of biscuit. You could unfurl your hammock, light yourself a beach side camp fire and live on the breeze for weeks quite easily, and what's more, there wouldn't be a soul that would hassle you.

Sunday, January 22, 2017

San Jose (Costa Rica) - Do you know how to get there?



San Jose (Costa Rica)                           
22 January – 24 January 2017

Exiting the terminal in San Jose I desperately wanted to ask someone, ‘Sabes como llegar a San Jose’, which is roughly translates to asking someone whether they know the way to San Jose. Our opportunity did come soon enough when we really did need to find the local bus that went downtown. The meaning, or rather the relation of the question probably would have been lost on them in the sense that the song, ‘Do you know the way to San Jose’, was about busting out of Los Angeles rather than trying to find your way out of a Costa Rican airport.


This will take you to San Jose - the bus driver must know the way, right?
San Jose - Costa Rica

Staying the course with our budget busting holiday we jumped a public bus from the airport and made the assumption that whichever one we took it was eventually tracking to city centre, which in fact it was, just that we exited a couple of kilometres too early subjecting us to an extended walk across town in order to get to our hostel.


Down town San Jose - Costa Rica

San Jose - Costa Rica

San Jose - Costa Rica

San Jose - Costa Rica

In all honesty  we found San Jose to be unremarkable. Fairly ordinary concrete structures, honking traffic, nothing outstanding nor noteworthy. San Jose, aka, ‘Chepe’ is not even a vanilla capital, it’s the lighter side of beige. The only place where we found some respite from the run of the mill was within Barrio Escalante, an area known as the gastronomic centre of town. At least here you could wonder in and out of several fairly cool establishments without journeying too far and without acquiring that innate level of boredom where you look at a city and just think, ‘so what’.


Some of the coolest looking cash around - Costa Rican colon

Down town San Jose - Costa Rica

Cars side by side with good 'ole fashioned rail - San Jose - Costa Rica

Unfortunate as it is, San Jose is the capital of the mediocre but far from being representative of the entire country  - thank goodness for that. I understand that like many places, digging deeper, getting to know the people, making real connections would probably light the way to fascination but that's the oeuvre of modern day travel. It's identification by Instagram, your bite sized one stop shop of satisfaction that necessitates a highlight for both validity and depth. San Jose, we just didn't have the time for you. Apologies on our part, but really, you need to get yourself some game!