Lisbon (Portugal)
06 September - 08 September 2015
06 September - 08 September 2015
The landscape out of Madrid as you head to the end of the continent is unchanging, almost unimaginative. Burnt, heat beaten, a country of various shades of brown extended relentlessly in front of the car dashboard. Riding shotgun can be a painful experience as the kilometers roll on buy and you wonder to yourself whether time passes differently when you're conscious of its transition. Somehow when time becomes the subject of focus then it appears to bask in its own innate control over all things. That's the trick that time has up its sleeve, and your only real control over it is to cast it from your mind. To escape its grasp you need to escape its thought, thankfully sleep knows a trick or two regarding time's tyrannical rule.
Arriving in Lisbon had felt somewhat momentous. We had effectively crossed the continent and were about to arrive at the launching point for the new world. From here you're able to see the edge of the world, and from there, Valhalla, perhaps? Or perhaps you can keep sailing and head-butt the Americas, if you were daring enough.
Ponte 25 Abril - Lisbon - Portugal
Lisbon - Portgual
Lisbon - Portugal
Lisbon is an undeniably magical city and still, to an extent, not haunted by the ravages of populism, not yet at least. Inevitably it will get hit by the 'flavour of the month' wave,you can feel that its on its way. A city of this much beauty, not horrendously priced, it's placing itself in harms way.
We rolled into Lisbon on a beautiful Sunday afternoon, held high above the Targus on Ponte 25 Abril the city unfurled in front of us as we drove in from the south, terra cotta tiled buildings ofwhite, yellow and red colour, a rich tapestry being beaten by the Atlantic sun. Quite the impression after several hours of unrelenting monotony in the Iberian countryside.
Landing in the barrio of Baixa-Chiado we aimed up for the apartment that we'd reserved for a couple of days. That was problematic for the fact that we somehow failed to print off the reservation details for the place, didn't have internet access on our phones and encountered other 1st world digital problems. We ended up taking a fall back position at the fabulous Hotel do Chiado. This hotel and its accompanying view was just an absolute dream, let alone the incredible terrace that my cousin and I managed to hijack from our mothers. Apologies ladies but 'you snooze, you loose'. We were however gracious enough to invite the two ladies up for afternoon cocktails, so perhaps that made up for the way we poached the prime location from them.
Lisbon - Portugal
Hotel do Chiado - Baixa-Chiado - Lisbon - Portugal
Hotel do Chiado - Baixa-Chiado - Lisbon - Portugal
Hotel do Chiado - Baixa-Chiado - Lisbon - Portugal
Hotel do Chiado - Baixa-Chiado - Lisbon - Portugal
Lisbon - Portugal
Lisbon - Portugal
Lisbon - Portugal
Looking out over the old part of town in front of us, the sun bouncing over off the terra cotta tiles and the Pombaline rococo, feet up, drink in hand and simply gazing out in admiration over what truly is an enchanting city, a large part of me felt quite content, even happy about the current situation. It was in fact a whole new beginning, a leap of fate of sorts. Packing up everything that we were accustomed to and heading to live in Serbia, whilst making sense, was still a change of substantial gravity. And whilst I can't say that I ever felt nervous or wrong about that decision I did secretly question myself as to how long it would last. Only our good friend time could comfortably answer that question one way or the other.
Lisbon, a city of pure magic, also had its part to play. As the light faded out on our first day and we walked the cobbled amber lit streets, stepping across the tracks of the famed No.28 tram as we discovered more of our barrio. Ornate Moorish tiles adorned building facades, old weather beaten faces appeared on terraces and from behind large wooden doors as strains of Fado could be heard floating out of the occasional cafe or restaurant. You couldn't help but fall for a place like this.
Lisbon - Portugal
Castelo do Sao Jorge
The magnificent city of Lisbon with the September sun beating down
The nightlife in the city is juxtaposed perfectly with the atmosphere of the day. In Barrio Alto where my cousin and I went exploring, it was boisterous, loud, enchanting. There was music, the clinking of glasses, the sounds of cutlery hitting plates, waiters busily making there way through chairs and tables to take orders. The yellowish hues of lights stretching their arms to light streets and alleyways that were full, and apparently, are always so. It's the kind of vibrancy that has a gravitational pull, and much to my lament, is the type of environment that I use to long for in Sydney. On occasion I'd find pockets in Melbourne, for example Carlton, St.Kilda or Brunswick street. In Sydney, perhaps only Newtown ever felt like that to me. Here in Lisbon, it was just 'the way'. There's something cool about the authenticity of that feel, not needing to be unnecessarily manufactured.
At one time this city was not just the focal point of Europe but of the World itself. One of the richest and most influential in its time, the birthplace of the Age of Discovery, at the vortex of a global hub of trade and innovation, pulsing with the activities of traders, seafarers & conquistadors, they all left an indelible mark on a city that still basks in an old world glory but also carries it with noble dignity. It knows exactly where it came from and what it was, like a fading beauty whose self assurance can be witnessed by all just by being in their presence.
The old area of Amalfa is a cobble stoned maze of alleyways that are lined by ancient houses, all clinging to the hill which eventually leads up to the castillo of Sao Jorge, a moorish piece of architecture which occupies a hilltop that holds epic views over the city. The magnificence is not just its architectural signature but also the light, its bright, sharp and somehow it bites. The way that the sun reflected off the Targus and bounded off the white buildings of the city, well, you couldn't ask more from any other jewel.
Lisbon is a special place. Hopefully its gets treated well in future, its not a place that needs to be lost to what too much appreciation can undeniably take away.
Lisbon - Portugal
The No.28 tram - on the way to Alfalma - Lisbon - Portugal
The No.28 tram - Alfalma - Lisbon - Portugal
Lisbon - Portugal
The sun glimmering on the Targus river - Lisbon - Portugal
Vladimir at castelo de Sao Jorge - Lisbon - Portugal
Castelo de Sao Jorge
Castelo de Sao Jorge - Lisbon - Portugal
Lisbon - Portugal
Our apartment on Calcado do Combro - great view out to the Targus river - Lisbon - Portugal
Lisbon - Portugal
Lisbon - Portugal
A morning sunrise in Lisbon, and that can only mean one thing...time to leave
Lisbon is a special place. Hopefully its gets treated well in future, its not a place that needs to be lost to what too much appreciation can undeniably take away.
