Paris - Bonne nuit Paris

Commissioned by the then French president Francois Mitterand, the Louvre pyramid outside of the Louvre is basically a large glass and metal pyramid, surrounded by three smaller ones within the courtyard of the Louvre museum. I recall that when it was completed in 1989 there seemed to be a lot of controversy regarding it's look, the argument that it clashed with the overall 'look' of the museum etc. I remember seeing it on the news and thinking, you know, it really isn't that bad...and in reality it's not, it certainly adds a new dimension to the area. It's even more spectacular at night but that shot I'll leave for a little later on in this update.

As I've been updating this blog, many months removed from the actual travel that I've undertaken, I've kind of forgotten to mention the dates of travel. To keep track, this was my fourth day in Paris, on the 9th of July, 2008. This was to be my last full day in Paris and in the 'City of museums' why not kick of the last day with the world's best known and perhaps most loved, inclusive of the world's most well known painting.

The Louvre pyramid taken from inside of the Louvre

It would take days, continuously moving through the respective rooms of the Louvre in order to see every piece in the museum. I had a few hours maximum, so of course you pick the 'classics' and 'take them out' in order of priority. Number one on the list the little painting below.

Mona Lisa by Leonardo da Vinci

People always comment on how small the paiting is but for me, after hearing these stories and imagining something miniscule, it's actual size was a surprise - a lot larger than I had imagined. Again, the crowds were there but not the terrifying throngs that I'd imagined either, I generally think that most people are either terribly sensitive, easily irritated or over emphasise their stories for effect. So, what to say about the Mona Lisa - first and foremost her eyes are engaging, compelling and draw you in without effort. It's said that her expression is enigmatic, displaying a certain sense of ambiguity, I think that's right. There's a sense that the person is right on the edge of smiling or perhaps showing a sense of deep love, respect or appreciation for the painter...then when you think of that you realise that it's not a photo and in fact its the creation of the painter, Leonardo, who had this person in his minds eye. Once you consider that then you quickly figure out what sort of genious this represents. It's certainly not the best or most awe inspiring painting but it is by far and away the most engaging.

I'm not sure how long I was in her presence, sometime I imagine, but my next destination was one of the most well recognised sculptures on earth.

Venus de Milo

Recognised as one of the most famous works of ancient Greek sculpture, the Venus de Milo or the Aphrodite of Milos was created somewhwere between 130 and 100 BC and is believed to depict Aphrodite. More famous for its missing arms, that were lost somewhere along the way, the Venus de Milo, unlike the Mona Lisa is underwhelming. Maybe I just don't have a thing for statues or maybe it was where it was positioned. It was in quite a non-descript area, away from all of the other Greek sculptures, just on its lonesome with a handful of people standing about.

I've added a few more of my favourite paintings from the Louvre, most from the Renaissance period, which is any paiting from the 14th-17th century or there abouts. I may have gotten the period incorrect but lets just say, some of the paintings were enormous - some floor to ceiling action by 10mtrs or so, they just left me dumbfounded. I don't have any names of the works but I've added a few below.

After walking around the Louvre for hours and actually quite enjoying myself I thought I'd make a return trip to Monmatre and check out the Dali museum. Surrealism to me is definitely a favourite movement / period and Dali, well he's the King, right ? Unfortunately this museum disappointed me, it was small, didn't have any paitings, had a few lithographs and some photos of Dali, overall, it was lame.

Not to be disappointed, I cruised around Montmatre and decided to try and absorb the feel of the place. I also took up residence and quaint little restaurant and a few reds whilst I reflected on my last two weeks of travel.

My Montmatre pit-stop

Reflections in Red

Let the reflections begin. I sat in this restaurant for a few hours mentally retracing the steps that had brought me here and not even on this journey but I'm talking about the years prior and the decisions, both good and bad that had brought me here to this point. No epiphanies, nothing overly profound, some realisation of regrets and the realisation of opportunities that had presented themselves. I've got to say, I feel more than fortunate to have been able to see the places that I've wanted to over the years or consider myself able to be able to think of seeing certain places without doubting that the opportunity would present itself.

I did manage to drag myself away from a great little afternoon of introspection and walk the streets of Montmatre, appreciating what it had to offer and the discoveries that presented itself in each new street, in each sight. It was a great afternoon.

As the afternoon wound down I made my way down from the village promising myself that I'd have to return relatively soon. I have the an unwritten policy of not wanting to return to a place until such point in time that I've seen all the other places that I've wanted to in the world but hey, Paris is going to have to be another acception. I jumped a train via a few connections to Le Marais area and decided that Chez Robert and Louise would be a fantastic place to revisit and have an evening meal.

Chez Robert & Louise

Oh yeah !! That blood sausage and pork belly was spectacular .....if you're ever there, then do it !

As is common for me, usually when I arrive in a place I like to walk. I tend to see more and feel more when I'm on the ground walking around. As has also been my custom, my last night in a place tends to be reflective and I walk, more absorbing the sights than anything else. As I walked from Le Marais I kind of stumbled into rue St.Denis, or so that's the way I remember it. After a fantastic dinner I decided to step it up a notch with a fantastic creme brulee and a fine, fine cognac - why the hell not I say.

Totally satisfied I hit the streets again and slowly started making the return journey home. I can't exactly remember what I was thinking at the time, swimming in my own thoughts I imagine, but here are a few of the last night shots I took of Paris.

The Louvre at night

Even more slowly I made my way down the Seine and came across Boulevard St.Michel, the home straight for me. Now, as always, sometimes you encounter some of the most intruiging parts of a place a little to late, thus was the case with me and the Latin Quarter. Now this place literally was right underneath my nose but as I walked around the rest of town these small bars, streets, cafes, eateries were just crying out to be discovered. I only wish I hadn't made it there so late, it must have been close to 2am and most of the places were shutting down although the streets were still filled with people, it was amazing.

...and so at that point I had to bid Paris adieu, bonne nuit to an absolutely magic place. Paris for me just fits perfectly into the puzzle of my psyche. Some places you pass through, experience, appreciate for what it offers and then move on for the next adventure. This town I feel is going to stay with me for a while - we're going to become firm friends :)